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My BAM. Dusse-Alin, 1980—1982
Alexander Nevzorov


Somehow, scolding me on the parade ground before the whole system, the commander of the battalion said: “You, Nevzorov, then you’ll talk everywhere – I served in the BAM, I built BAM, I’m a hero. In fact, you slobber and g… And the medal “For the construction of BAM” you will not get. You are not worthy of it. Completely agree with him. Alexander Nevzorov.





My BAM

Dusse-Alin, 1980—1982



Alexander Nevzorov



© Alexander Nevzorov, 2018



ISBNВ 978-5-4490-3847-0

Created with Ridero smart publishing system


Leningrad-Khabarovsk, seven hours ofВ summer or seven days byВ train. IВ did this way and so and so. From Khabarovsk toВ Chegdomyn, the secret capital ofВ the Eastern section ofВ the BAM, on the train for another day. InВ Chegdomyn was inВ 1980В the headquarters ofВ the First Corps ofВ Railway Troops, where IВ was sent after the institute for military service. IВ went toВ serve as an officer for two years.



Chegdomyn stands slightly apart from the BAM, it is aВ district center, aВ well-off mining town. Here there is no dry law, like at BAM, and here they go for vodka and wine. But alcohol here is ugly ofВ poor quality, even for that time. The corps inВ Chegdomyn manages the brigades ofВ the railway troops scattered around the BAM itself. IВ fell out aВ brigade with aВ dislocation inВ Urgal.



Today inВ Chegdomyn there will be dances

Dances ofВ the Yakuts and the Northerners

They get up there inВ aВ circle, they beat the ground with theirВ feet

And they sing something inВ aВ wild voice



They sing about severe frosts

About how water carries water carriers

About – — – — -, about long rubles

How people die ofВ longing



Urgal – a large (by the standards of BAM) junction. It connects the BAM and the Chegdomyn-Khabarovsk branch. Urgal consists entirely of wooden barracks, in the main, these are military buildings. The whole Eastern section of the Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM) is built by soldiers of the railway troops. The western section of the BAM was mastered by the Komsomol members.



But IВ will not serve inВ Urgal. IВ will serve inВ aВ place called Dusse-Alin. There is aВ separate battalion zheldorvoysk. Dusse-Alin is known for being located at one ofВ the longest tunnels ofВ the BAM, its length is almost 2В kilometers. Actually, the battalion is also engaged inВ the tunnel, its restoration.



So, from Leningrad IВ flew toВ Khabarovsk. From Khabarovsk IВ came toВ Chegdomyn. From Chegdomyn IВ headed for the bus toВ Urgal. From there, take the train toВ Dusse-Alin. The case was inВ the summer ofВ 1980, inВ August. The smell ofВ burning was clearly heard inВ the air. The taiga was burning.



Taiga here burns every summer. This is explained simply, the climate on the BAM is continental. The sun shines all year round. Precipitation is only two months aВ year, aВ month inВ spring and aВ month inВ autumn. Summer heat, winter frost. And despite the relatively low latitude (51В degrees north latitude versus 60В degrees latitude ofВ Leningrad), here is the permafrost zone. Winter is difficult toВ survive. Frosts over 50В degrees, IВ personally testify about 54. One careless movement and you are frostbitten. Going toВ the toilet on the street (and others are not here), you manage, ofВ course, toВ unbutton your pants on your trousers. You will not be able toВ fasten it toВ you (on the street).



The train at the BAM (then called the “bichevoz”) went once a day, arriving in Dusse-Alin at night. I’m in a civilian, with a suitcase, got out of the car and went to the part, at the checkpoint (checkpoint). The whole of Dusse-Alin consisted of two parts, the territory of the military unit, located in the lowland and the officer town, located higher, across the road. At the checkpoint I was met by ensign Smal. Maybe now he reads these lines. Greetings to you, my first colleague!



At the checkpoint there is aВ small room with aВ bed, where IВ stopped for the night. And inВ the morning IВ went toВ the part, toВ be introduced on the occasion ofВ my arrival. The deputy commander for the rear, Major Voznyuk, met me. It turned out that the battalion is almost inВ its entirety now on aВ business trip, inВ the city ofВ Artem, Primorsky Krai. The second way is laid there on the railway line. And for the senior there is aВ deputy at the rear. The part is almost empty, only aВ platoon ofВ security and some rear services.



Voznyuk determined me to stay (temporarily) in the medical unit. For several days I lived there. Forms of military I did not have, to serve until I could not. The post, to which I was appointed back in the Corps, was called “deputy company commander for the technical part.” And the company was technical, the fourth. That is, I was the deputy engineer of the technical company. In the company (about which I learned later) there were up to 100 personnel members, three platoons. Behind the company there is a fixed technique – electrical stations, cranes, bulldozers, various equipment. Here, at the BAM, we were on full technical self-sufficiency. In our battalion there are only 5 companies. The first three – track, the fourth – the technical, the fifth – the car. Still there were different services, I will not list them all, so as not to bore the reader.



InВ every company forВ fun

There are zamptones



So, aВ few days IВ lived inВ the medical unit. They fed well, the linen was clean, IВ was not offered pills or injections. And then Petya, IВ do not remember the name, zampolit my company, also an officer, aВ two-year-old, offered toВ occupy an empty apartment inВ his house. IВ took it. InВ this apartment IВ lived the first year ofВ my service. Small house, ofВ course, wooden, for 4В apartments. AВ room ofВ 15В meters, aВ tiny kitchenette and aВ big real oven, it was my apartment. And aВ couple ofВ days later IВ went toВ Urgal inВ the brigade, behind the uniform.



Every morning, a so-called “divorce” is made in the military unit. The whole personnel of the battalion is built on the parade ground in a certain order. The command is “submissive” and the commander appears. More precisely, on the contrary, first the commander appears, and then the command is “approached” by the senior officer. The commander greeted the personnel: “Hello, comrades!”. Then he listens to the reports of the commanders of the mouth, sets tasks, scolds someone and so on. At the first divorce in my life, I also came in new uniform. Ensign of our company Shubin showed my place in the ranks. I looked at the officers standing next to him, ensigns and soldiers and tried to do the same. That is, what it considered necessary to do. Of course, now I understand this, from the outside I looked completely foreign body. But the main embarrassment happened later. When all went on the parade ground, I also went. Maybe not in step, maybe somehow wrong. But when the whole company suddenly turned and went left, I went on alone straight ahead, breaking the whole system. Everyone laughed and I had to catch up with my ranks.



Looked only that “Dusse-Alin” on the Internet. The village of such and such a station is not today. There is Soloni, there is Suluk, and Dusse-Alin, who should be between them, he is not. The military unit, when it came to unfreeze and restore the tunnel in the seventies, also did not find anyone here. But there was a camp here. And not even one. From our side (closer to Suluk) was the male “zone”. And from the opposite side, the tunnel was pierced by female prisoners. And somewhere in the middle (so they say) they met. Indirect evidence of this are two bas-reliefs above the entrance to the tunnel, Lenin and Stalin. The date is also broken out – in 1953.



It is said that “Dusse-Alin” in translation from the Evenki (local indigenous population) means “White Mountain”. An interesting coincidence. I was born in the city of Karaganda. That in translation from local, Kazakh, means “Black Mountain”. But this is so, by the way. In fact, according to Wikipedia, Dusse-Alin is a mountain range, a watershed of three districts. That is, here the rivers begin flowing in different directions. It turns out that Mount Dusse-Alin is the highest point of the whole neighborhood, about two thousand meters above sea level.



Of course, the species in Dusse-Alin are very beautiful. It is a pity that I did not specially photograph them then. And what was filmed, somewhere hurt. Maybe it’s worth to drive now, after almost 40 years, to those places. To resemble, admire, live for a while or permanently… Do not believe me, but I still sometimes dream about an army.



A stream ran past the part. What was it called? Now I’ll look on the Internet. No, I can not find it. It was said that gold was washed here before the camps. Indeed, here and there you can see the remains of wooden footbridges. But I did not see the gold itself. Maybe I looked badly for him?



After serving aВ couple ofВ weeks at the BAM, IВ was seconded toВ the main battalion, toВ the city ofВ Artem. Here, our glorious fourth company served, that is, worked, together with the technology entrusted toВ it. The battalion occupied the building ofВ the school, where the school itself had gone, IВ do not know. InВ the classrooms stood inВ 2В tiers ofВ bed. The officers lived inВ aВ dormitory or rented aВ house inВ the private sector.



IВ forgot toВ write about one more, another Dousse-Alin episode. When IВ just arrived toВ serve, IВ especially did not hide that IВ was engaged inВ karate. Then it was extremely fashionable. IВ brought aВ kimono toВ my BAM, my yellow belt and was going toВ intensively continue my studies. Although he visited the sports section only aВ few months before the army. So, one evening, IВ was summoned toВ me byВ the acting battalion commander, Major Voznyuk. InВ his office there were already officers ofВ the unit, those who did not leave for Artem. About ten people. Voznyuk held aВ meeting, he was addressed byВ some important current issues. Suddenly, at the very end ofВ the working meeting, the deputy announced that I, aВ newly-minted lieutenant, deputy customs officer ofВ the fourth company, are aВ karate. And now, right now, at the moment, IВ will show them all my art. With aВ mysterious grin, the major climbed under aВ chair at the entrance and pulled out three bricks from there. Two ofВ them he put on the edge, and tritium laid on top ofВ them.

“Come on,” he said to me. – Demonstrate.

For six months of training, I never broke bricks. Of course, I saw how the masters broke them. But to see, this is one thing, but to be able to do it, is quite another. The bricks were red, hardened, where I took them to the bum, I do not know. It could well be that they did not break at all, under any circumstances. What was to be done? Say I never hit bricks? Refuse to “speak”? Probably, it was necessary to do so. But I decided to hit. To beat or not to beat? Beat. And come what may.



ByВ the way, inВ 2В years, at the very end ofВ the service, IВ decided toВ tell my friends about that incident. And they brought bricks from somewhere too. And everyone began toВ break them inВ turn. Only Zhenya Kuzmenko, aВ dentist, managed toВ do this, he was the most healthy and engaged inВ athleticism, as they say now. But IВ did not break my brick, no matter how hard IВ tried.



And then, only having arrived at the BAM, inВ the company ofВ strangers unknown toВ me, IВ stood inВ front ofВ aВ brick on my knee. IВ closed my eyes and called for help all conceivable and unthinkable forces. IВ swung and struck the red brick with all the urine from the unknown. And he split. Everyone applauded. And IВ started gaining authority. It was, probably, the only brick inВ my life that IВ had broken.



Artem in the eyes of the soldiers who came from Dusse-Alin, and even the officers, is a fabulous place. Alcohol in shops, young ladies in light dresses on the street. It was summer. On one of the days off (in the Soviet army there was one day off for most of the officers – a resurrection) we went in an organized way to swim. On the Gulf of Peter the Great. Peter the Great Bay in the Pacific Ocean. Have you ever bathed in the Pacific Ocean? But for some reason it was not very warm. The sea was slightly “cool”, although until the fall it still seemed far away. And the sun was somehow not Black Sea, not resort.



In Artem, I introduced myself to my immediate commander, the commander of the fourth company, Captain Alexei Silushkin, by the way, my fellow countryman from Leningrad. He was a bachelor, short, but very mobile and energetic. I introduced myself to my chief commander, the battalion commander, Major Kurguzov. He was of medium height, stocky and wearing glasses in a large square frame. It was said that our battalion commander, Pope, was the head of the whole Union’s railway troops. So it or not, there was nowhere to check.




Конец ознакомительного фрагмента.


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